How To: RSX Braided Steel Brake Line Install
I installed braided stainless steel brake lines on my RSX in search of more braking feel, and I succeeded in my search. Here's how I did it, and I included a cost breakdown at the bottom of the page.
What You'll Feel:
Assuming the rest of your brake system is in order, you should be able to feel more of the brake pad's interaction with the brake rotor. I have slotted and drilled rotors and I can now more clearly feel them scraping against the brake pad when I brake hard. Other than that, the main difference is that the brake line won't expand when you press the brakes, leading to better braking time, especially if your previous brake lines were in rough shape.
Attention:
While you're doing this, you're going to lose brake fluid while you're attaching the new brake lines. Make sure your brake fluid reservoir never goes dry or you'll have a ton of air in the system and your brakes will feel bad.
Required Parts:
StopTech RSX 2002-2006 Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines (Front)
StopTech RSX 2002-2006 Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines (Rear)
Prestone AS401 DOT-3 Synthetic Brake Fluid
Required Tools:
Steps:
1a. Loosen the Wheel Lugs
1b. Jack Up the Car
Jack your car up in the front and rear. You can do them separately, but I find it easier to put both ends in the air to avoid raising and lowering the car 6 times. If your car is too low, you can drive the front and rear wheels onto 2x4 pieces of wood to get it high enough to get the jack under.
Make sure you never get under a vehicle not supported by jack stands, as being crushed will affect your ability to read my articles in the future : ).
Jack Points for the Acura RSX (All Years and Models) |
Jack Stand Points for the Acura RSX (All Years and Models) |
1c. Remove the Wheels
Remove the front and rear wheels. You can put them under the car for added safety.
Acura RSX with Wheel Removed |
2. Remove Brake Lines
There's a 12mm bolt holding the line to a bracket that you should take off first.
10mm Flare Nut Wrench for the Hardline |
Very importantly, you need to crack the hardline-to-softline connection before you remove the brake line clip to avoid being unable to loosen it. Take a 10mm flare wrench (not a normal 6-point wrench, or you'll most likely strip it) and loosen the nut on the hardline. You shouldn't have to loosen it all the way, just enough to get it moving and not leaking all over the place while you work.
The Hardline is Directly in the Middle, Connected to the Bracket - The Clip is at the Base of the Hardline |
Next, we'll remove the brake line clip. The clip is kind of difficult, but you can use a screwdriver to pry and wedge it out, and then use some pliers to grab it and pull it the rest of the way. Don't damage it if you want to reuse it. It's not suggested, but it works fine.
A Closer View of the Hardline-Softline Connection |
Remove the banjo bolt on the brake caliper that connects the brake line to the fluid port on the caliper. It's a 10mm bolt with a copper washer under it, then the brake line, and then another copper washer. Make sure both washers are removed before you install the new brake line with the new copper washers.
Finally, fully remove the hardline-to-softline connection using a normal 6-point 10mm wrench now that it's cracked open. The 6 point will make turning it out a quicker process.
Brake Fluid is Caustic, and Will Remove Paint - Put Cardboard Down on your Driveway and Keep Some Rags and Soapy Water Handy |
3. Install New Brake Lines
The side with the banjo bolt is in this order: banjo bolt, copper washer, brake line, copper washer, brake caliper. Tighten it, but not too much. The service manual states 25 ft/lbs (stated in figure below), but I just got it tight to avoid stripping anything. With brake fluid lubricating everything, torque settings are thrown off.
Make Sure You Remove and Replace All Washers in the Correct Order on the Banjo Bolt to Prevent Leaks |
Next attach the hardline to the softline by bringing the new softline up through the bracket with the hole under the hardline. It's a little difficult while it's dripping brake fluid but with enough downward pressure and turning you'll get it. Tighten it up a reasonable amount, but wait until you put the clip on it to finally tighten it. You can put the clip on by getting it started with your hands, and then tapping it with a hammer to get it to seat fully. Then tighten the hardline to the softline until it feels reasonably tight. You don't want to strip that connection.
I Put the Neck of the Brake Line In Between the Tines on the Caliper. It Seemed to Not Be a Problem, and Give me a Good Angle Towards the Bracket |
Finally bolt the bracket to the brake line bracket with the 12mm bolt. Just tighten it enough so it isn't moving around.
The Bracket, Where the Brake Line is Attached |
4. Bleed Brakes
Bleed the brakes in this order:
- Driver's Side Front
- Passenger's Side Front
- Passenger's Side Rear
- Driver's Side Rear
Specific Acura RSX Bleeding Procedure |
5. Reinstall Wheels
Reinstall the wheels, and make sure you torque your lug nuts to 90 ft/lbs to ensure you don't lose any wheels or lug nuts while you're driving.
All Done! |
Cost:
$140 - Steel Braided Brake Lines (Front and Rear)
$9 - DOT-3 Brake Fluid