The Comprehensive Acura RSX / DC5 Integra Buyer's Guide
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| Just Kidding, I'm Literally Never Selling It |
Welcome! I'd like to congratulate you for starting your journey to joining the community of Acura RSX owners. The Acura RSX is known to last through extreme abuse and mileage, all while being a very enjoyable practical affordable drivers car. What more could you want? Here's my guide to buying one, and all the things you need to know.
1. Do You Want Automatic Or Manual Transmission?
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| Manual Transmission RSX - With A-Spec Package Shift Knob |
As with most car purchases, you'll have to decide what kind of transmission you want. If you're buying a base model RSX, you can choose between a 5-speed automatic transmission, 5-speed manual transmission, or 6-speed manual transmission. The Type-S only came in 6-speed manual, as did the Japan/Europe/Australia exclusive Type-R.
Automatic Transmission
I'm not a manual transmission fanboy. I like a well-designed automatic transmission. With that out of the way, I believe the automatic transmission found in the base model RSX is not the best designed example. It's less sporty and engaging than the manual transmission options. It's slower to respond and less driver-focused, if that matters to you. To put a number on that claim, here's some 0-60MPH numbers.
- Base Manual: 7.2 - 7.4 seconds
- Base Automatic: 8.0 - 8.2 seconds
- Type-S Manual: 6.3 - 6.7 seconds
- Sometimes there can be a "shock" or noise on auto transmission engagement. This can be a transmission problem, but it's more likely to be that the engine and transmission mounts might need to be replaced.
- Check for leaks coming out of the automatic transmission. It may leak from the banjo bolts, but the fix is super easy for that and just requires tightening them to a higher torque spec.
- Check that the transmission is engaging smoothly, shifts into all the gears, and try flooring it to make sure it shifts properly under duress.
- After you get back from your test drive, check the transmission fluid level to make sure the fluid is at the proper level and a healthy (not burnt) color.
- A whining noise in reverse is normal; reverse is a straight-cut gear.
Manual Transmission
Manual 5-Speed (Base Model Only)
- Reliably Holds Up To 200 - 220 Flywheel Horsepower
- Top Speed: 140 - 145 MPH
- RPM @ 70MPH In Top Gear: 3,100 - 3,200 RPM
Manual 6-Speed (Type-S or Type-R Only)
- Reliably Holds Up To 250 - 270 Flywheel Horsepower
- Top Speed: 150 - 155 MPH
- RPM @ 70MPH In Top Gear: 2,700 - 2,800 RPM
- 6-Speed manual RSX transmissions are known to have problems with failing 3rd gear synchros. Gear synchros, or synchronizer rings, help sync gear speeds before they're engaged. When they partially or fully fail, it can cause grinding or gear pop-out. Grinding damages the gears, and pop-out "pops" the car out of the current gear partially or fully and can also be damaging. Make sure you drive the car or have someone who knows manual transmissions drive the car. Try to drive it a little hard on the test drive to see if it pops out or grinds. It will be obvious. This can be a very expensive problem to fix, but carbon synchros are sold to stomp the problem out for good. This applies to all RSX Type-S from 2002-2006.
- It should be noted that the gear issues mentioned above could also be caused by old or low manual transmission fluid. Ask the previous owner if it's been changed, or if they have maintenance records. Putting new fluid in can help the problem as long as it hasn't progressed too far. This applies to all manual transmission RSX's.
- Listen for a squeak, or notchy feel with the clutch pedal. This can be the clutch master cylinder rubbing on the outer diameter of the internal piston when the pedal is pressed, or the master cylinder quick-connect is moving around. This requires replacing the clutch master cylinder, which can be a $70-200 repair just in parts. This applies to 2002-2004 Type S only.
- If shifting gears feels notchy and the transmission is "picky", this can be a result of excessive drag from 5th and 6th gear, requiring the replacement if these gears. It could also be related to the shifter cables. This applies to 2002-2004 RSX Type-S only.
2. Should You Buy A Base Model, Type-S, Or Type-R?
Alright, now that you've chosen a transmission, that will help you choose which model you want. The base model only comes with the 5-speed manual or 5-speed automatic transmission, so if you want those, they're very common.
If you want the 6-speed transmission, you're going to have to go with the Type-S or the Type-R.
If you don't know about all the different RSX models, you should read my comprehensive visual guide on all the differences between RSX models. It covers some things that go into more detail than I am in this article so I suggest you check it out!
The main difference between the base model RSX and the Type-S is the Type-S makes more horsepower and comes with a lot of really nice options, including a Bose sound system and some lightweight wheels. Visually, there's a few little mentions of "Type-S" in the interior and on the rear bumper, but otherwise it's very similar.
The "DC5 Integra Type-R", or RSX Type-R, is not available in America. It is RHD only. If you want one in America, you can buy an imported model or import one yourself from Japan, Europe, or Australia. It's lighter, makes more power, and generally impresses the Honda-loving masses. However, they can be extremely expensive. If you want the Type-R, chances are you know why you want it.
3. What Year Should You Buy?
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| 2002 - 2004 Top, 2005 - 2006 Bottom |
For base models, they used the same engine throughout the entire RSX production timeline, from 2002-2006. They produce a lethargic 160 horsepower and 141 lb/ft of torque. Choose what you want based on overall car condition, transmission type, and mileage.
For the Type-S, the short answer is get a 2005 or 2006. The 2005-2006 models also have slightly less problems than the earlier models. The Type-S engines from these years are more powerful by about 10 horsepower than the 2002-2004 Type-S, respectively 200 horsepower and 210 horsepower. If you don't like the newer look, but want the power, you can just swap the bumpers and lights for the older style. If you can't find a good 2005-2006 in your area when you're shopping but you like the look, you can also swap for the newer bumpers and lights fairly easily. I own a 2003 RSX Type-S, and I like the look of it, and I've modified the engine to make way more horsepower than the later model. In summary, it's really personal preference depending on what you like and what you plan on doing with the car. At the end of the day, 10 horsepower isn't the end of the world.
The DC5-R is the same amount of horsepower no matter what year you buy; 220 horsepower or so. It also follows the aesthetic facelift in 2005.
4. Buy From A Dealership Or 3rd Party Seller?
You need to choose who you want to buy your RSX from. Dealerships are often selling shiny cars with clean interiors, but they charge a few thousand dollars more. They have been known to hide problems from potential buyers. Why wouldn't third party sellers do this? They don't have a quota, their job and livelyhood doesn't rely on you buying their car, and they are not trained to blindly move product. Dealerships can be alright if you're willing to pay extra to have them do a lot of the paperwork and DMV stuff for you. I don't think it's worth it though as it doesn't take much work, and it isn't much harder than putting your name and VIN on some papers.
Third party sellers can be found in all sorts of places. On the side of the road, in a barn, on Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, or any other number of places. First, make sure you're really dealing with a person. Look in the listing photos and check what else the poster is selling. If they have a dealership sign in the background, steer away from them. Ask a few of your most important questions, but if it's a really nice car, just meet up with them to look at the car. Sellers will lose interest sometimes if there's too many questions and not enough action and planning.
It's perfectly normal for a third party seller to want a cash-only payment. Go to your bank and retrieve the amount they want for the car, and then keep it hidden in your car somewhere.
DON'T
- Agree on a price beforehand
- Get too excited and not test anything
- Ask too many questions on Marketplace without scheduling a meetup
- Wait until the last second to pick up money from the bank
- Come alone
- Look at the car at night, you will DEFINITELY miss problems!
- Be late
- Go in with no information on the car. Do your research and look into the profile of the seller if they're on Marketplace, and see what else they're selling
- Rush the purchase, inspecting a car takes time and the seller should understand that
- Pay before inspecting the car and verifying the person selling owns the car (check the title)
- Trust a seller who rushes you, won't give you basic information, or acts shady. There are other cars, I promise you don't want theirs. Trust your gut. It never works out if you don't.
- Skip the paperwork or accept paperwork from someone who isn't on the paperwork; you will have the car taken from you.
- Be pressured.
- Sign documents without carefully reading them.
- Negotiate on emotion.
- Assume a low price is a good deal.
- Overlook rust, wear and tear. If it's bad on the outside, imagine what the stuff you can't see looks like.
DO
- "If the car is in the condition you say it is, I'm willing to pay $XXXX" (If you have plenty of options. Low ball over the internet vs in person because you can always come back and adjust your offer. In person if they say no you're stuck between buying it and walking away.)
- Bring a list and check off things that you need to look at and verify to make sure the car is in good shape
- Ask plenty of questions in person, remember you're about to spend a few thousand dollars with a random person, you want to know everything you can
- Pick up money from the bank ahead of time
- Bring a friend or friends who own an RSX or know what they're supposed to feel and sound like
- Look at the car in the morning or midday; viewing a car should take about 2 hours, and it will fly by like a few minutes because your brain will be on 100% looking for issues
- Be early to the meeting spot because it's polite
- Get a CarFax report if you're interested in a car. It'll tell you things like number of previous owners, previous *reported* accidents, mileage, service records, and title status. It's worth the money. It won't show everything though, so use your eyes also!
- Research the car model you want and figure out a fair price for what you want. Mods almost never add value, but it depends.
- Inspect the car thoroughly, and definitely do a test drive where you drive the car, not the owner.
- Ask for maintenance records.
- Negotiate price if there are differences from what they described online or problems they didn't mention or didn't know about. If it's priced as an average condition car, it should work like an average condition car. Working brakes, good tires, fresh fluids, etc.
- Print a bill of sale ahead of time and ensure details are correct before signing
- Ask why the seller is selling
- Ensure the seller has the title and registration paperwork, and that it's given to you on purchase.
- Walk away if you feel uncomfortable or the car isn't what you thought it would be. It's okay to keep looking.
5. Should You Buy Mint Condition Or A Beat Up Example?
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| Some See Potential, Some See Expense |
You can choose between buying a car that is absolutely perfect, or one that needs some work. Cars that need some work can save you money initially at the time of purchase, but often end up costing more than cars that are already perfect. Yes, if you can afford a perfect example, it will usually save you a lot of money because they spent all the money maintaining it. It's worth it. If you just want to buy a lower price example in a little worse condition, that's perfectly fine and you'll learn a lot along the way. If you can't afford the nicest one, it can help to space out your expenses over time if you need a car now.
6. RSX Inspection Check Guide
- Interior
- Check for tears in driver and passenger seat seams. This is common on the leather ones.
- Check seatbelt function
- Check for worn out shift knob / boot
- Check for poorly fitting trim pieces
- Check for cracked dashboard
- Check for sun visors
- Check that emergency brake works
- Check that the trunk release works
- Check that the hood release works
- Check for lights on the dashboard with the car running
- Check for spots on the headliner indicating a leak in the moonroof
- Move all the windows up and down all the way
- Check both the driver's side and passenger's side door locks
- Check that the key works to lock and unlock the car
- Check that the locks actually moved when you used the key
- Check if the radio has been upgraded
- Check for aftermarket subwoofer
- Check for upgraded speakers
- Check for the spare tire in the trunk
- Check for the Bose subwoofer in the spare tire (Type-S only)
- Check if the windshield wipers and wiper fluid squirter work
- Make sure the AC and heat both work at idle
- Make sure all the zones of the heat and AC work
- Check that all the gauges work properly
- Check all internal lights (dome lights, trunk light)
- Check that mirrors move when you move the mirror controls
- Check if horn works
- Check fuel door
- Check if the mileage matches the condition of the car
- Check seat heaters (Canada only, F*&^)
- Exterior (If there's a lot of rust, don't buy it. Peeling clear coat is normal for these cars)
- Check for peeling clear coat
- Check bumper conditon
- Check for body kit
- Check underneath car for exhaust leaks
- Check underneath car for rust
- Check rocker panels for rust
- Check for any torn or broken seals
- Check for missing trim pieces
- Check for missing fender liners (this lets a lot of dirt into the engine bay, and costs some money by the time you get the screws and bolts and plastic pieces - ask for some money to be knocked off the price)
- Check for aftermarket exhaust
- Check if the catalytic converter is missing (some shops will pass you for inspection without it, others will not)
- Check brake lights
- Check turn signals front and rear
- Check low beams
- Check high beams
- Check fog lights (if equipped)
- Check rear license plate light
- Check if the moonroof opens and closes all the way
- Shake the wheels and if they jiggle around it needs new wheel bearings
- Bounce a little bit on each corner (after asking the owner's permission, of course) to see if the shocks / coilovers are blown out or not. If it bounces a ton, it probably needs new shocks / coilovers.
- Check axle CV joints for leaking grease (if it leaks, the whole axle or transaxle needs to be replaced)
- Check for bent / cracked / scuffed up wheels
- Check fuel cap
- Check tire tread for damage / wear
- Check wheels for damage
- Engine Bay
- Check transmission fluid color and level (once car is warmed up)
- Check oil level and color (they do burn a fair amount of oil, you have to keep up with it)
- Check coolant level and color (before car is warmed up)
- Check brake fluid color and level (black is old fluid that needs to be replaced)
- Check clutch fluid color and level (black is old fluid that needs to be replaced)
- Check power steering fluid color and level (black is old fluid that needs to be replaced)
- Listen to how the engine sounds starting up or if there's any difficulty starting
- Look for fluid leaks (valve cover leaking is common, oil leaks are brown, coolant leaks are a powdery white, but just look around)
- Have someone rev the car in neutral while the car sits. Does the engine move excessively? This is a typical issue with old motor mounts that need replacement
- Check if engine mounts are old cracked rubber
- Check if the alternator casing is cracked in the middle of the front (common)
- Check the manufacture date on the battery (7-8 years old is in the range for replacement)
- Check if battery is an AGM or normal sealed lead acid (AGM is much better)
- Do a compression test. Yes it's a pain and kinda awkward, but anyone not trying to hide anything should be okay with you doing it.
- Check for consistent compression among the cylinders
- Check spark plug health
- Check for any weird extra wires to the battery
- Check for any cracks or breaking of the serpentine belt
- While Test Driving
- Make sure car accelerates smoothly (RSX manual transmissions can be a little jerky because of a heavy flywheel, but you should have a friend with you to tell you what's normal)
- Make sure the car idles normally
- Make sure the car stops when you push the brakes hard
- Make sure the steering doesn't feel heavy (this would indicate a power steering problem)
- Make sure the engine doesn't make any weird noises like consistent knocking
- Make sure there's no abnormal noises or smells
- Check that the engine heats up within 10 minutes of normal driving or less
- Listen for screeching brakes (need to be replaced)
- Listen for lumpy tires as you come to a stop or drive slowly (indicates low tire pressure or tire leak)
- Listen for whistling (failed) wheel bearings
- Smell for excessive cabin exhaust smell (oil smell is normal, these burn oil)
- Listen to the stereo and check if the speakers all sound like they should (then turn it off and listen to the car)
- Ask The Owner
- Do you have the title? (You can buy a car without a title, but it's a big pain and involves a legal "loophole". In general, stay away from these because they can be stolen.)
- What's the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)? (You can use this to get the CarFax report)
- How long have you had the car?
- What was the previous owner like?
- Do you have maintenance records for the car? (Big positive)
- Have you raced or tracked the car? (Speeding on the highway doesn't count, actual track time puts a lot of wear on the car though)
- Have you done any mods to the car? Did you keep the original parts? (Check if they're included with the car)
- What have you replaced on the car?
- Do the heat and AC both work?
- Have you ever had to refill the AC? (If yes and they're not a mechanic by trade, and you want working AC, STAY AWAY. Too many people use refrigerant with leak sealer, which ruins AC systems)
- What made you decide to sell the car?
- Is anything broken? Is anything acting strangely or not working?
- Has it been in any accidents?
- Have you replaced any major components, like the engine or transmission?
- Are there any leaks?
- How new are the tires? (Tire condition matters a lot, and so does the manufacturing date. Look at both for sure, and take money off your offer if they're more than 5 years old or the tread is low)
- Does the transmission have any grind or pop out? (watch their facial expression when you ask this to get the true answer; most Type-S's have this unless it's been fixed)
- Does the car have K-Pro, or has it been tuned?
7. RSX-Specific Benefits
- Plenty of aftermarket parts (at decent prices)
- Pretty good forums to ask questions on and look for solutions
- This website : )
- The pinacle of the revered Honda manual transmission tactile shift feel
- Looks sporty and cool if you take good care of it
- Stock engine can take 500 horsepower before you need to do engine work (if given mechanical sympathy)
- Pretty nice driver-centric interior
- Tons of cargo space
- Comfortably carry 4 normal / small size people, or uncomfortably carry 5
- Decently easy to work on, everything is a little tucked in, but workable and way better than the 8th Gen Civic Si's engine bay
- Easy block swap for more low end torque naturally aspirated
- Pretty quick, but not too fast for a responsible first car
- Good crash safety ratings
- Cheap to buy and maintain
- Reliable engine to 250k+ miles
8. How Should I Price The Car?
- On the KBB website, choose a year that you want to buy and click it.
- Click "Build & Price"
- Select a Style - Choose Base Model or Type-S
- Click "Price Without Options" if you chose Type-S, or choose the options you want if you want a base model.
- Click "Buy From A Private Party", and choose the condition the car you're looking at is in.
- On the next page, it will tell you the price range for your particular car. You can change the mileage, options, condition, and if you're shopping with a private party or a dealership.
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| The Market Value is Really High Right Now |
